A View From the Roof: by Gary Phillips

Do You Have What It Takes to Make It In Ecuador?

“Time is the quality of nature that keeps events from happening all at once. Lately, it doesn’t seem to be working.” –Anonymous

I remember back in the early 70s after getting out of the army, I roomed with a bunch of guys while completing college. Parties were the thing to do, and often, we would listen to Cheech and Chong recordings.

One of my favorite lines was when Cheech would say with a slight slur in his voice, “hey man…I’m not into time…man.” I even decided for awhile that I wouldn’t wear a watch, as my own personal rebellion against the system. It lasted until the day I got a job.

Well, here in Ecuador, we get to practice that sentiment nearly every day. Most people don’t often think of time as a social construct. But in fact, the quantum physicists and the enlightened gurus say that time doesn’t actually exist except in our minds. The only thing that exists is relativity, they say, and within that relativity, we create a structure we call time.

For the most part, it all sounds like nonsense. Of course, time exists. How else would I be on “time” for dinner when you tell me to be there at 6 p.m.? Of course I will be there. My watch tells me when it is time to arrive.

In Ecuador, Time is Something Different

But in Ecuador and most of Latin America, time is something different. The following comments were recently posted on the Yahoo groups Ecuador forum, by a woman who has lived in Ecuador for two and a half years:

Another series of experiences (here) has to do with Ecuadorians keeping commitments with regard to time. Time commitments are pretty much non-existent. I’ve been told that this is a Latin trait but it has been very difficult to get used to. Ecuadorians do not think of time the way Westerners do.

A 10:00 appointment has no meaning unless it is with a professional such as a doctor or dentist. But personal time commitments are almost never adhered to. I continue to find this insulting and it’s hard for me to believe that this country can launch itself into “developed nation” status from “developing nation” until this shifts. “Why specify a time when you know it means nothing?” –Anonymous woman, Yahoo groups.

What she really means, is that the Ecuadorian concept of time is vastly different than ours, and obviously, our time means something, but Ecuadorian time means nothing. But that concept is a bit ethnocentric, and will only get you a headache and bad temper if you actually try to live by that attitude here in Ecuador.

Our Job As Expats is to Discover What Times Means to Ecuador

The fact is, time does mean something here. It is simply our job as expats living in a foreign country to discover what time means to Ecuadorians, understand it, and adapt to it. If we are not willing to do that, then we may as well not come in the first place.

I am saying this with 100% seriousness. If you are not willing to learn and adapt to this culture, then stay home! You will only make yourself and everyone around you miserable. And trust me. You will need to work at it!

When we were first invited to an Ecuadorian’s house, and they told us 7 p.m., we would ask, “Do you mean Ecuadorian time or gringo time?”

They would look at us quizzically; smile a bit, and say, “Ecuadorian time.” So we would get ready, watch the clock, and impatiently try to patiently wait until at least 7:30 or 7:45 biting our nails in anxiety all the while. Then when we reached the party, we were still the first guests to arrive.

Now, we have stopped asking such silly questions. We live in Ecuador. There is only Ecuadorian time for social events. If you arrive at a 7 o’clock party at 7 p.m., you will most likely, and embarrassingly, catch the hostess in her dressing gown.

However,…and this is important. . .

Business meetings typically have perhaps a 10 minute time window, before you are though of as inconsiderate–unless your meeting is in Quito. Then “trafico” is a legitimate excuse for being an hour late or more. People will nod their heads and smile sympathetically.

Mañana Does Not Mean Tomorrow. It Simply Means Not Today

Then there is the case of the Ecuadorian workman. Mañana (which translates as tomorrow) doesn’t mean tomorrow in the minds of a workman. It simply means not today. “I will call you mañana,” means that if I think of it, I will call you, but if you really want to talk to me, or want me to show up, you better call me.

One of the reasons for this, I believe, is that workmen typically use cell phones, and cell phone minutes cost lots of money. Therefore, because the gringo always has more money than the workman, it is the gringo’s responsibility to call the workman. Makes sense, no?

If the workman says, “I will be there to deliver my product on Tuesday,” it means that he might be there if I remember to call him on Monday and remind him. Then call him again on Tuesday morning and see if he remembered or if something more important came up that will cause his delay. “Sorry, I’m in Quito,” is often the reply.

Now of all these situations, there is one that is very important and is invariable. Whether you discuss beforehand or not, when the work is finally delivered or installed, the money is due and payable immediately. Period. End of discussion. Even if the work is six weeks late, the bill is due and payable immediately upon completion. On this element of time, there is no confusion.

Aren’t you Really Tired of Being a Slave to the Clock?

For many of you reading this, for someone not to arrive on time for a dinner engagement, or to be late in delivering goods or services, may sound like the ultimate blasphemy, and something you could never live with. But just for a moment, stop and think–how many of you really want to come to Ecuador because you are tired of being a slave to the clock?

This culture really does have something to teach us North Americans. And if you come with an open mind and an open heart, you will be greeted warmly and openly, nearly as if you are long lost friends returning home.

Be prepared to adjust and adapt. Because if you can’t, Ecuador may just chew you up and throw you out.

And that’s the view from the roof.

But here’s one more for your viewing pleasure:

Everybody loves a parade, but the Cotacachi residents absolutely thrive on them. This parade begins a month long celebration of Cotacachi culture. From our roof top terrace, we have a perfect view, as every parade in Cotacachi comes down our street.

Like communities all over the world, Cotacachi too has a queen, an of course, she needs a ride in a fire engine with a uniformed escort. I hope Linda doesn’t see her flirting with me. Haha.

There is a huge effort by the people of Cotacachi to preserve their cultural heritage. And it is a colorful heritage indeed. And dance is an extremely important part of this culture. Unfortunately, we heard too late that there was a Cotacachi Cultural dance performance in the auditorium across the street. Well, we won’t have long to wait until the next one.

Do you think she is enjoying herself?

I love this picture. This kind of activity helps give the children of Cotacachi an identity and a confidence that is somewhat rare in the world these days.

Filed under: Ecuador Culture, View from the Roof