Living in Ecuador Blog

Blanca is an indigenous woman who comes once a week to clean for me and Gary. When she first started working for us, I asked myself numerous times whether I really needed someone to help out in our apartment.

After all, it’s quite small and I can do it myself in less than half a day.  Why concern myself with waiting for someone to show up, come on time, or clean the way I want it done?  It’s so much easier to do it myself.

Except it isn’t.  I am now working more hours per week than I have ever worked.  And I’m not getting any younger!  Her help is much appreciated.  It makes my life simpler and I can spend more time doing what I like to do.

I also questioned whether cleaning was the best use of her time.  I know she’s bright, a leader in her community.  She is an outspoken, strong and talented woman.  I’m convinced she can do a great many things competently. Was my hiring her as a maid keeping her from pursuing a higher potential, fulfilling her true destiny?

To assuage my guilt, I told myself that her working for us as a maid was only temporary.  We could help her find more creative, higher-paying work, raise her standard of living, teach her new skills that would bring her more income.  But right now, she needs to support herself and her five children since she is newly-divorced and not receiving any financial help from her ex-husband.

Then it occurred to me:  Why didn’t I just ask her what she really wants to do? I sat down with her one day and did just that, thinking it was time to expand her financial horizons.  I was sure she’d reveal some secret desire or hidden vocational aspiration.

Did she want to work in tourism, administration, catering?  What?  She’d taken a course in tourism and also loves to cook traditional Ecuadorian meals for expats.

So I was surprised when she lit up, smiled brightly and answered, “I want to clean more.” Right now, for her, happiness seems to be having more gringo houses and apartments to clean.

This was an unexpected revelation to me.  But perhaps cleaning a gringo apartment is interesting and full of mystery.  She probably wonders why we need so much stuff-electric mixers, toasters, waste disposals, salad crispers. What do we do with all these dishes, these interesting but useless knick-knacks?  When can we possibly wear all these clothes and shoes?  She has worn the same kind of costume since childhood, the same style and color shoes.

Blanca’s answer didn’t fit my ideas about her.  But I respected what she wanted and found more houses for her to clean.  That seemed to be enough to make her happy.   It’s what she felt she had skills to accomplish.

As the months have gone by, Blanca has blossomed. She has taken on more and more of the responsibilities we have given her.  She began to partly manage the units we rent in Primavera I.  She does all the cleaning and some of the maintenance.

When the regular manager there failed to cut the grass week after week, she arranged for it to be done.  She makes sure gas canisters are filled and occasionally fits in some catering.

Recently we hired her full-time in our office.  With the passing of the new constitution, it has become more problematic to hire people on a part-time basis. The law requires that they receive social security. While many people are still operating that way, it’s very difficult for one person to live on the $1-$2 an hour that many are paid in Ecuador.

My vision for Blanca is shaping up after all.  Just holding a space of positivity for another person has such a powerful effect upon their lives.  It’s the best gift we can give–to focus on someone’s perfection instead of his or her inabilities and failings. And to view their humanness with humor and love.

Now Blanca is the liaison between our company and the indigenous.  She speaks Spanish and Kichwa and attends our real estate interactions with local villages.  And if anyone is in need of a good domestic engineer, call our office.  We’ll send Blanca to clean up your world.

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Filed under: About Ecuador, Ecuador Culture, Ecuador Lifestyle, Living in Ecuador, Uncategorized

A reader recently asked us: “I want to know up to date advise on the length you can stay in Ecuador with a t3 visa. Two years ago i overstayed and they told me i am able to renew my visa there without leaving the country but now the consulate is saying that i only get 90 days per year. Please help me if i overstay again what happens. Last time i was ban from entering for one year.”

Unfortunately, there is no easy answer to this question. Ecuador is famous for shaking up the laws and rules on a regular basis. Up until a few months ago, you were about guaranteed to get 90 days each time you re-entered the country by air. Land entry was more of a gamble. Several clients have let us know recently that they only received 10 days when re-entering by land or air.

While it does not make much sense, the consulates of Ecuador often do not know what is going on in Ecuador. Their information is often outdated. Rather than rely on the information from them, you should always try to verify what you are told with other sources.

Ecuador law permits people to be in the country for a maximum of 180 days out of any 12 month period. The year does not start in January. How Ecuadorian consulates and government offices choose to interpret and apply the law is another story.

As has been said many times in these blogs, do not overstay your visa for any reason. You will be fined and deported. The exact amount of time you will be required to stay outside of Ecuador is not well defined.

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Filed under: About Ecuador, Ecuador Border Crossing, Ecuador Constitution, Ecuador Laws, Ecuador Politics, Ecuador Tourist Visa, Ecuador Travel Information

Hi Readers,

Here are a couple of excellent articles about Ecuador.  The first article explains how Ecuador is attempting to save the rain forest.   The second article is an interview with Ecuador President Raphael Correa following a speech at the United Nations.  Both articles will help you get an idea of the political scene in Ecuador.

Subject: Oil or Trees? Germany Takes Lead in Saving Ecuador’s Rainforest — by Jess Smee

Oil companies are salivating over the supply of black gold beneath Ecuador’s rainforest. The South American country is pledging to keep the oil in the ground — if the international community provides compensation.

Now Germany has taken a leading role in raising the necessary cash.There are many attributes which make the Yasuni National Park special: It is one of the most bio-diverse places on the planet, it is home to indigenous tribes which hunt and gather in its remote interior, and there’s a unique breed of small bat.

But the national park also has a geographic curse: It sits atop Ecuador’s largest known oil reserve, thought to contain hundreds of millions of barrels.

And this potential fortune threatens its very future. In response, Ecuador has come up with an unusual plan to safeguard the UNESCO biosphere Reserve.

The cash-strapped South American country has pledged to leave the oil in the ground forever – something unheard of among oil nations — if the international community compensates for some of the lost income.
…
Read the complete article at http://www.CultureChange.org/go.html?466

The following link is the Democracy Now! interview with President Correa.

http://informationclearinghouse.info/article22947.htm

Enjoy.

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Filed under: About Ecuador, Ecuador News, Ecuador Politics

Ayampe is a Village in Ecuador that Still Retains Its Charm and Individuality

 Continuing our tour of the Ecuador beaches north of Guayaquil, we crested a hill and there was Ayampe down below, with its miles of beaches, the winding Ayampe River and coconut palm plantations.  Ruy drove us down to his piece of heaven which begins just past La Meson de Quilote Hostel on the left side of the road and continues to a dirt road that took us to the beach. 

The new highway in front of the property is now complete and a sign announces the location of the coming eco-development.  Ruy purchased the beachfront land in the early ’90’s.  In addition to large single family homes on the site, there will also be condominiums and a hotel.

 Right now there’s nothing but open beach stretching in both directions.  Beautiful vistas lead the eye to the horizon.

To the left of the property along the water’s edge, a river meanders down to meet the ocean. Constantly changing, its boundaries were totally different when Gary was here a few months ago.  Sandbars come and go, forming a lagoon at certain times of the year.

Later the river will burst free of its constraints and rush to the ocean, where hungry fish await an easy harvest of shrimp from the river.  The river’s unleashing of water also brings a layer of rounded river rocks that line the beach for a while, only to be swept away once again, leaving just the sandy shore.   

 Nature at her most creative, painting a landscape with water, stones and waves.

Standing here with only nature surrounding me, watching the frigate birds and pelicans, I was struck by how rare a gift this piece of land is. 

There are fewer and fewer places on earth where I can commune with the natural world unencumbered by the inventions of modern man.

A Expat Community of Two

After a few spins on the beach in the rental car and a good look at the mangroves Ruy has worked hard to preserve on his land, we headed back to the highway.  Next stop a few doors down is the beach rental of our friends and partners in the Ayampe project, Dixie and John Walker.

These newlyweds moved to Cuenca from Australia.  It didn’t take them long to realize that the beach is the place for them.  They have already vacated their beautiful apartment in Cuenca to live in Ayampe full-time.  What perfect balance:  the soft serenity of waves gently lapping to lull you into profound repose or just a short plane ride away–the stimulating perks of city life.

Living on the beach is a dream come true for Dixie. Cuenca is lovely but lively and the pace of life is so much slower in Ayampe—and warmer.  John was having a bit of trouble with Cuenca’s higher altitude.  The beach suits him much better.  Being so close to Eco Ecuador Living, they will be able to better assist those coming to live here.  The community of expats living in Ayampe will soon grow larger.

These two expats have all the modern conveniences at the beach, including a washing machine and a Jacuzzi in their 2-story thatched house.  A short distance from the tree-lined front gate the surf and sun beckons. 

Nothing else much but soft breezes, rustling leaves and tranquility.  I’d say they have found their own personal paradise.

After a short visit with Dixie and John, Ruy took us to our hostal, Cabanas La Tortuga, and our tour ended for the day.

Cabanas La Tortuga is owned by David, an Ecuadorian who has created his own family compound inside the walls of his bamboo and thatch hosteria.  He’s right on the beach under coco palms and a large almond tree.

There are individual cabanas, rustic with only a bed (ours was king-size) and table, and private bath.  The shower had plenty of hot water with great pressure for getting all the beach sand off.  We had a covered patio complete with rocking chair, table and chairs and hammock.

A brilliant living fence of Indian red and fuschia boughanvilla lined the property beachside.  The setting is undeveloped, peaceful; nothing but sand and a few beach cabanas at the ocean’s edge with unfettered views in both directions.

The thatched hosteria cabanas are spread out for more privacy.  

A rounded two-story main structure has an enclosed kitchen and dining room downstairs and an open-air tile and wood covered patio upstairs for dining, dancing, whale-watching or sun-bathing in padded lounge chairs.  Across the road there are economical camping spots available.

I now realize that Ayampe and the southwestern coast of Ecuador is not just beach and bars or surfing and sun.  It’s a unique state of being, a way of life like no other I have experienced in Ecuador.

There’s a plethora of natural and man-made wonders to delight in and we only touched the surface on the first day of our tour. 

Ayampe borders an incredible national park and I’ve heard tales of the discovery of a new site similar to Machu Picchu.  In later blogs I’ll share more of our adventures in the Ayampe area and points north.

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Filed under: About Ecuador, Ayampe Beach, Ecuador Beaches, Ecuador Culture, Ecuador Lifestyle, Ecuador Real Estate, Ecuador Tours, Ecuador Travel Information, Living in Ecuador, Places in Ecuador, Quito Culture, Route of the Sun

Montanita is Ecuador’s Melting Pot and Surfing Capital

Continuing our tour of the Ecuador coast with Ruy, we are only a short distance from Montanita, with its famous surfing beach.  Our tour of the southwest coast of Ecuador has just taken us through the village of San Antonio, much greener than previous towns.

This is where the rainforest used to reach.  Outside town there is a small twin engine airstrip.  I made note of the fact because of its possible use by visitors and expats moving to this area.

(Scroll down for the other articles in the series of our tour of the beach from Guayaquil to Ayampe)

Montanita is a deliciously disorderly town, a party town that attracts mainly a younger crowd from all over the world.  Here in this bustling beach town is played out a familiar scene I’ve witnessed throughout my travels in Thailand, India, Malaysia, Guatemala.

Every country seems to have that one spot that is more hip, more attractive and more international than other tourist destinations.

For Ecuador it’s Montanita.

It’s an international melting pot, a place to relax, surf, swim, play, dance and mingle as you listen to the competing beats of techno, rap and reggae.

The glut of cafes and restaurants in town are a great place for checking out the tanned bodies strolling by.

A Glimpse of Montanita’s Past and Present

Our guide Ruy reminisced about how Montanita used to be such a beautiful little town of thatch and bamboo houses, with a charming lagoon, rainforests and mangroves. The mangroves were cut down, as most of them have been that used to line the coastal waters.

Without the mangroves to protect it, the sea advanced further inland, eroding the beach and destroying the lagoon, which has disappeared.

Turning off the highway toward the ocean there are dirt streets densely lined with many-storied buildings of creatively funky and unusual architecture.

Wildly artisanal, they are built with huge bamboo poles, rocks, shells, thatch and the generous use of paint and murals. In fact, it seems that any material available is given an artistic new use and becomes part of the architectural mix.

We returned to Montanita a few days later with friends, so stay tuned for more about Montanita in a future blog.

Olon Beach—Ecuador’s Most Expensive Beach Property

Twelve kilometer long Olon Beach is just over the hill from Montanita.

It stretches out along the shore, clean and white and is edged with some of Ecuador’s most expensive beach real estate.  Current prices for oceanfront land with no infrastructure is $150 per square meter. Houses are in the $500,000 range.  Most of the owners are wealthy Guayaquilanos.

The main highway at Olon is also lined with large estates behind tall walls and gates, but we could glimpse expanses of lawn, multi-storied homes, and colorful landscaping.  One estate has thoroughbred horses in stone stables.

From Manglaralto, near San Antonio, to Tunas, the road will be two-lane concrete instead of 4-lane asphalt, because there is more humidity.  In addition to more rainforest there is a seasonal condition called garua, which is several months of light drizzle or dense sea mist.

We Enter the Rainforest

After Olon the rainforest was very evident in all its many shades of green splendor. The concrete road is partially finished and wound through mountains thick with trees and nothing else to mar the beauty of the landscape.  I held my breath because the change of scenery was so magical.

This continued for a few miles and would have stretched further except that we hit an area being clear-cut for agriculture and cattle.  I have to wonder if the locals know that clear-cutting jungle leaves very poor land in a short time.  It only takes a few years of monoculture to quickly deplete the soil of nutrients.  Ruy told us that the cattle in this area are sickly.

Now we are only a few miles from Ayampe, the location of Ruy’s green development, Eco Ecuador Living.  Stay tuned as I share our experiences of Ayampe with you in future blogs.

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Filed under: About Ecuador, Ecuador Beaches, Ecuador Culture, Ecuador Lifestyle, Ecuador Tours, Living in Ecuador, Montanita, Route of the Sun